From wispy and voluminous, to natural and doll eyed, eyelash extensions represent the lengths Black women go to enhance their existing beauty. Long, curled lashes have long been a symbol of Black identity. Think: Josephine Baker who wore extra-straight lashes in the '30s. Later, Diana Ross was known to clump her lashes in the '70s, and, more recently, Pat McGrath glued oversized fabric lashes on Black models for Marc Jacobs's Fall 2024 show.
"Lash extensions are more than just a beauty trend, they're a time-saving solution and an expression of personal style," lash tech Jas Imani tells ESSENCE. "In the Black community, where beauty has always been a powerful form of self-definition and creativity, lash extensions offer a low-maintenance way to stay polished while honoring individual identity."
According to Verified Market Research, the lash extension market was valued at 1.6 billion dollars in 2024 and is projected to reach 2.73 billion dollars by 2031. But, with a recession looming, cutting corners with affordable yet, less experienced lash techs or replacing your appointment all together with DIY lashes may be the most economic solution. But, is it safer?
"The eye area has the thinnest and therefore the most delicate skin on the face," says Dr. Chaneve Jeanniton, epi.logic founder and oculofacial plastic surgeon at her private practice, Brooklyn Face & Eye. "Eyelashes are highly sensitive and function like whiskers, detecting objects or insects that come too close, triggering a protective blink reflex."
While all natural lashes serve the same function, the length of eyelashes are determined primarily by genetics (upper eyelashes are usually 7-8 millimeters long) and ethnicity can influence lash shape and curl. According to Jeanniton, Black women are more likely to have naturally curly lashes while Asian women tend to have straighter, thicker lashes, for example. Although extensions can give the illusion of longer, thicker, and curlier lashes, they can't replace -- and may even harm -- the function of our naturals.
"In my aesthetic practice, Brooklyn Face & Eye, I frequently see women with allergic reactions to fake eyelashes," Jeanniton says. This is because the base of the eyelash, where lash glue is applied, is packed with nerve fibers meant to protect the eyes. However, "many patients don't realize that the irritation, swelling or rash they're experiencing on their eyelids stems from a reaction to the adhesives used on fake eyelashes."
Meanwhile, the rise of DIY lashes doesn't help. "Lash artistry is about precision and care, two things that are hard to DIY, especially around your eyes," Imani says, with cheap strip lashes and adhesive containing more harsh chemicals and heavy materials. "When lash extensions are applied improperly -- too heavy, glued to the skin, or layered on weak natural lashes -- they can cause breakage, irritation, or even lash loss."
"While the risks of fake eyelashes apply to everyone, Black women, who contribute significantly to demand, can take extra precautions to keep their eyes healthy and safe," Jeanniton adds. From choosing a lash tech who centers lash care and cleaning your extensions regularly to taking breaks between appointments and getting a keratin lift, taking your lash health seriously can significantly minimize harm. "You shouldn't have to sacrifice health for beauty," Imani says. "Health is at the core of good beauty treatments."