For those suffering from SAD (Seasonal Affectiveness Disorder), compounded with HAD (Holiday Anxiety Disorder) there is one direction you should face: North. The residents of the countries in Scandinavia have known how to deal with crazy-long cold nights for centuries, and we should learn from them.
Here in north central Massachusetts, there have been so many Finnish, Swedish, Norwegian (and yes, Danish and Estonian) emigrants that their legacy can be seen everywhere, although some institutions have long passed, alas, such as the Raivajaa newspaper, which published in Finnish and was sent all over the world. However, others are happily still with us, like the Finnish Center at Saima Park.
Volunteers recently hosted a gathering in which "Joulutorttu" ("Christmas star cookies") were baked. These are four-sided stars with a fruit filling made out of puff pastry. Event organizers found recipes at a blog from Finland, written in Finnish and English: "Suomeasaijankanssa."
I was immediately smitten with the opening lines to the "Joulutorttu" recipe: For this Christmas delicates you'll need puff pastry. No one, nobody, not even in Finland, will be doing this pastry by themselves. If they say they are, they are propably (sic) lying. Well, maybe Mrs. Santa is doing this from the scratch."
At Saima Park, the Finnish spirit of cooperation prevailed. Saija Laurla, who teaches Finnish, lead a large group in making dozens of Joulutorttu. Glog was also served, and the attendees listened to Finnish music broadcast from overseas, and a "hauskaa aikaa" (jolly time) was had by all.
When Finns and other Nordic emigrants settled in New England, they brought with them passion for athletics and a spirit of community cooperation that blossomed into remarkable projects which continue to benefit the region -- Finns began the Workers' Credit Union, for example.
Finns get into the Christmas spirit weeks before other European folks. "Dec. 1 was always celebrated as 'little Christmas,'" said Nancy Little of Fitchburg. "Decorations were started and kids got small gifts. I usually got a Christmas coloring book and a new box of crayons. There was also a Christmas rye bread you could get at the Co-op. It had anise seeds in it."
The "Co-op" that she refers to is the United Cooperative Society of Fitchburg, a "consumer cooperative" founded in 1910. This organization included a bakery, restaurant, and dry-goods store which flourished for years in Fitchburg's Upper Common.
Nancy has a large collection of "Tontuu," which her family began nearly a century ago. These wee bearded gnomes with high peaked hats have now become part of the generalized American Christmas culture, but they began as mischievous and solitary winter elves who were most active in the dark months.
But back to the food! We can also thank Swedish people for the "smorgasbörd" (westernized into the "charcuterie"). My longtime friend Ingrid Schorr reports, "my family is Swedish and we serve the same dishes every year for the julbord that my mother made: Jansons temptation, beet and apple salad, boiled potatoes, knäckebröd, cheese, Kalles caviar, three kinds of pickled herring, ard boiled eggs. Aquavit and beer. The meatballs and pepparkakor now come from IKEA."
Dance teacher Jenny Fava ("Miss Jenny" of Little Stars at Mass Gymnastics in Leominster) remembers her late mother every winter. She was of "Norwegian descent and every year at Christmas in honor of her, my sisters and I make 'lefse' (kind of like a tortilla but with potatoes). It is tons of work but a labor of love, and super delicious rolled with butter!"
Get into the "Jul" spirit and visit: jouluradio.fi. When I clicked on, I heard Alvin and the Chipmunks singing in Finnish!
On Saturday, Dec. 28, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. the Ashburnham Historical Society will present a "Scandinavian Winter Tea Gathering," Stevens Memorial Library, downtown Ashburnham, FREE. Celebrate the winter season with the cozy aroma of cardamom, cinnamon, and holiday cheer. Traditional baked goods, coffee and tea and lively conversation including topics such as Scandinavian cookbooks, recipes and more.
Serves 3 (recipe can be increased)
Gently heat three cups Cran-raspberry juice on the stove. (Finns make this with black currant juice).
Mix in: 3 cinnamon sticks, 3 star anises (or 1 teaspoon ground anise), a dozen cloves, a dozen black peppercorns, ¼ cup sugar and stir. Let simmer at least five minutes - more won't hurt.
If you like, you can add a couple of cups of red wine, but it's fine without. Don't let this mixture heat for too long, or the alcohol boils away. Pour into mugs, add raisins and almonds to be traditional.
Thanks this week to Lorna Sulin and the Finnish Center at Saima Park. Send your stories and recipes to sallycragin@gmail.com and put "Family Recipe Box" in the memo line.