A nearly full moon seemed the right time to visit Howling Wolf Taqueria's new location in downtown Portsmouth.
We went with friends to the Mexican hotspot and started the evening with margaritas -- one house variety and one Love at First Lime.
The Howlah appetizer plate we ordered arrived smoking hot and overflowing with bacon-wrapped jalapenos, avocado fries, chicken wings and chicken taquitos.
Somehow the avocado fries managed to be crisp on the outside and tender on the inside.
"How do they do fry avocados?" we asked our server, who mentioned panko breadcrumbs and hot oil.
The jalapeno-ranch dipping sauce with the fries also went well with the cream cheese and chorizo-stuffed jalapenos, though at least one member of our party of four confessed to the peppers bringing tears to his eyes.
The taquitos were not as crunchy as we had hoped, but the chicken wings hit the mark.
Howling Wolf's dining room has high ceilings and large windows, a reflection of its history as the former U.S. Customs House (built 1857-1860). It's just steps from Market Square.
Restaurant co-owner Anthony Ackil and a team of business partners have crafted a dynamic wood-and-brick space with fun touches such as a wall of Mexican masks and a glass panel looking into the kitchen. It's the former site of the Book & Bar, which was owned by Dave Pelletier of Margaritas Mexican Restaurant fame. Pelletier and his brother John are in on the new venture.
The restaurant is building on the success of the original Howling Wolf Taqueria in Salem, Massachusetts, which opened nearly a decade ago. The two locations share a menu and a similar funky vibe.
I started at the top of the "Wolf Favorites" menu with the Tres Amigos -- grilled chicken with verde lime sauce, carne asada served with grilled scallions, and grilled shrimp with mango chile sauce. It came with rice and beans as well as generous dollops of guacamole and sour cream.
The guacamole was particularly good, as were the pinto beans and rice. The beef, chicken and shrimp were grilled to the point of maximum flavor and juiciness. The dish was too much for one person; I took much of it home.
My dining partner chose a three-taco plate with grilled shrimp (served with cucumber, avocado slices and mango chile puree); carne asada (marinated in citrus and spices, with onions, tomato, cilantro and lime); and grilled fish (with cabbage, tomato and chipotle-cilantro sauce).
The fillings all met with his approval, but he was not a fan of the corn tortillas, saying they quickly became soggy. He prefers crunchy tacos, but they were developed in the United States starting in the 1940s and are not typically served at "authentic Mexican" restaurants.
Our table mates opted for the carne deshebrada (shredded meat) enchilada and the Howling Wolf Burrito.The enchiladas were filled with slow-cooked brisket and sauce.
Brisket was also featured in the burrito, along with bacon, rice, cheese, black beans, peppers and onions, chili con queso and red and green sauce.
"The brisket was good and so was the bacon; I'm taking half home it's so big," the burrito lover said.
Next time we'll check out the fajitas, quesadillas and chimichangas.